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Noovo Editions


Noovo Editions is an independent editorial project with online and paper editions. First of its kind in Spain from an unique and contemporary perspective on the international panorama, Noovo seeks not only to be an aesthetic arbiter but also a cultural mediator at the juncture between Fashion, Photography & Jewellery. A platform to show the highest level of creativity from around the world

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Its News -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

HERE ARE THE ITS#NINE WINNERS!

Trieste, Italy. 17 July 2010: The ITS#NINE location - set-up as an amazing steampunk, retro-futuristic spaceship ready for takeoff - welcomed over 400 guests from all over the world including an impressive selection of international press for the final evening of the event, when the winners are chosen.

Viktor & Rolf, Diesel Art Director Bruno Collin, Founder & Buyer of Maria Luisa boutique Maria Luisa Poumaillou, ITS Director Barbara Franchin were only some of the names on the jury panel called to evaluate the projects and decide the winners.

Here are the names:

  • TAKASHI NISHIYAMA: Fashion Collection of the Year (€15,000 + jury member at ITS#TEN and production of fashion show to present a ne collection)
  • MICHAEL KAMPE: Diesel Award (€25,000 + internship at Diesel HQ).
  • YONG KYUN SHIN: Fashion Special Prize (€5,000)
  • NIELS PEERAER: RA Award (Window display at RA destination store)
  • SARAH WILLIAMS: Accessories Collection of the Year (€5,000)
  • EMMA YEO: YKK Award (€10,000 + production of promotional image)
  • SARAH WILLIAMS: Absolut Award (€3,000 + limited edition production of winning accessory)
  • YUWEN LU: Modamont Award (feature on September 2010 edition catalogue and website)

 The Fashion Collection of the Year Award was assigned to the finalist who MOTIVAZIONE PREMIO

The Accessories Collection of the Year Award was assigned to the finalist who MOTIVAZIONE PREMIO

THE FANTASTIC VOYAGERS ARE READY FOR THEIR MISSION!

After two days viewing hundreds and hundreds of portfolios arrived from every corner of the planet, ITS – International Talent Support proudly announces the selected candidates, chosen by prestigious Jury members! Please welcome them with a round of applause and celebrate the new ITS Generation!! They will be showcased in Trieste, Italy, on 16 and 17 July 2010!

ITS#FASHION FINALISTS

Courtney McWilliams, British, Royal College of Art, London (UK)
Astrid Andersen, Danish, Royal College of Art, London (UK)
Hanna Ter Meulen, Dutch, Royal College of Art, London (UK)
Sara Bro Jorgensen, Danish, Royal College of Art, London (UK)
Yong Kyun Shin, South Korean, Central St Martins College of Art and Design, London (UK)
Martina Spetlova, Czech, Central St Martins College of Art and Design, London (UK)
Takashi Nishiyama, Japanese, Coconogacco College, Tokyo (JAPAN)
Michael Kampe, German, Hogeschool Antwerpen, Antwerp (BELGIUM)
Niels Peeraer, Belgian, Hogeschool Antwerpen, Antwerp (BELGIUM)
Sidéral(es), Fashion Designer (ITALY)
Juho Song, South Korean, Polimoda, Florence (ITALY)
Nir Goeta, Israeli, Shenkar College of Engineering and Design, Tel Aviv (ISRAEL)

ITS#ACCESSORIES FINALISTS

Kirsty Ward, British, Central St Martins College of Art and Design, London (UK)
Keeley Smith, British, London College of Fashion, London (UK)
Sarah Williams, British, London College of Fashion, London (UK)
Si Kim, South Korean, London College of Fashion, London (UK)
Rob Goodwin, British, London College of Fashion, London (UK)
Yuwen Lu, Taiwanese, London College of Fashion, London (UK)
Zara Gorman, British, Royal College of Art, London (UK)
Emma Yeo, British Accessories Designer (UK)
Tomoko Tokuda, Japanese Accessories Designer (JAPAN)
Heyoung Yun, South Korean, Polimoda, Florence (ITALY)


More Info: http://www.itsweb.org

Michael_Kampe
Kirsty_Wards
Takashi_Nishiyama Yong_Kyun_Shin
Tomoko_Tokuda  
 
 
The many hundreds of portfolios arrived for ITS#NINE represent a privileged view point on today’s young creativity. There are common “trends” that connect a designer in Azerbaijan with another one in Argentina, and it’s incredibly fascinating how designers all over the world seem to share several ideas and concepts. ITS registers them just like a seismographer would, documenting them without judging.

Last year was marked by the increase of menswear collections, at the detriment of a "saturation" in womenswear design. After viewing the ITS#NINE portfolios arrived for fashion and accessories competitions, we can confirm a strong interest of young designers in developing menswear projects. A new attitude is introduced with regards to womenswear, intended as a space to unleash creativity whereas menswear follows cleaner and softer lines.
We were pleased to find outfits that once again are made to dress and wrap the body. It is a return to a more traditional view of clothes, where the body is the key structure that carries the outfit, free of any unnatural or forced position and gesture.

The classical concept of elegance has also been put aside, but only to leave space for a new aesthetic that could be identified as a “refined sartorial street”. It is completely void of craziness and volumes, somewhat strict and sister to a chromatically moderate elegance never without the necessary comfort to face a frequently quoted battlefield: the street.

It is a new uniform for the social actors, who roll up their sleeves and restart from black to reconstruct the shininess of wealth. Reason is found in a type of neoclassical elegance, directly derived from all the "musts" that marked the collective imagination in the past 30 years. It also puts into evidence a strong and necessary connection of the designer with the present, it reminds us of philosopher and sociologist Georg Simmel when he announced/declared the "great male abandon" of the sumptuous dress and colour, to wear the "worker's uniform" in the newly born industrial era.

Having said this - even though there are always exceptions and it is exceptions that we look for - it appears quite clearly that the excesses of the eighties are gradually fading away. These young designers are creating collections that express their will to be understood by the market. Putting aside their desire of self expression in order to demonstrate a greater understanding of the needs of those who will wear their outfits.

Womenswear shows more intelligent solutions replacing the exaggeration of volumes. The span of research here goes from the formality of the twenties to the complicated haute-couture of the French school. As a result even these silhouettes are globally more linear, though sometimes including volumes in the shoulders and in the hips

The amount concepts underlying the projects is evidence of the vast amount of research behind the collections.
 
Birds
What stands out most in the portfolios is the presence of birds of all sorts (sometimes just stylized), from the nightingale to the crow. They are used as a part of the outfit or accessory, decorative or structural element, embroidered or three-dimensional and also as a reference in mood boards, in colour palettes, in artistic sketches and in photos of the outfits.
In a period of global negativity such is the one we are currently living, birds appear to be the symbol of our desire to "spread wings" and fly away and also become message bearers (as were birds in the past).
  Birds 1 Birds 2
Insects
The most numerous among the species, insects appear very often also in the mood boards, as does the animal kingdom at large.
  Insects
Muscles & Bones
The body is naked and turned inside-out to show the muscles and bones that we then find as elements inside the collections. It might be the first step towards a man that is conscious of its ability to survive without the need to exploit the skin of other living creatures for its own wealth.
  Muscles 1 Muscles 2
Scars
Wounds, scars and sutures are the logical physical consequences. They present themselves also on a visual and conceptual level as metaphors of the need to mend pieces/fragments...Experience is based on failure and understanding one's way, evolving from chrysalis to butterfly, is not an easy task.
  Scars 1 Scars 2
Double Heads
Two heads can help provide a clearer view, and we have found several different representations: As metaphor of the need to face one's own conscience (remember the discussions between the wise talking cricket and the naive Pinocchio in Collodi's celebrated tale?), or as a bond between past and future quoting the virtues of the Roman Olympus deity Giano.
  Double Head
Masks
Together with four-eyed sketches we also registered the frequent use of the mask, deprived of any connection with eroticism and mimicry. It is to be seen as part of the above double head symbolism and represents a semiotic way of "hiding to reveal" or, quoting Oscar Wilde: "Man is least himself when he talks in his own person. Give him a mask, and he will tell you the truth".
  Masks
Tents & New Nomads
The tent is a comeback in the "new nomads" trend, sadly representing the only/temporary shelter of many today, a consequence of the tragedies that hit the planet recently. It isn't that hard to be homeless in the "Grand Hotel Global Village".
  Tents & New Nomads
Geometry & Symmetry
In the images of the mood boards as well as in the pictures of the outfits we often found the use of geometry and symmetry. A game of Futurist mirrors and kaleidoscopes worthy of painter and sculptor Umberto Boccioni.
  Geometry & Symmetry
Materials & Techniques. Weaving
Overall prints and knitwear had increased in the recent past but they now give way (together with the neglected denim) to the weaving technique declined in several different ways. Like the Celtic symbol of the round dogs (three dogs eating each other's tail), weaved fabric can symbolize both a bond as well as the infinite since it has neither head nor tail. We also cannot exclude a reference to the tradition of Bottega Veneta even though it is strange on such a large scale.
  Materials & Techniques. Weaving
Colours
The colours are those of an autumn garden: a melody of grey and charcoal, with yellow and blue accents and few solos of red, closing with a hint of white. Very little space is left for strong contrasts in favour of shades of grey.
Baffling the "little black dress" cliché, we found one-colour outfits in the womenswear collections. An involuntary quoting of the artistic Suprematism of painter Kasimir Malevich, parallel to what the artistic vanguards of the beginning of the 20th century were, when a reduction of shape also meant a reduction in colour.
  Colours
Clean Shape
Both womenswear and menswear show more intelligent solutions replacing the exaggeration of volumes. The span of research here goes from the formality of the twenties to the complicated haute-couture of the French school. As a result even these silhouettes are globally more linear, though sometimes including volumes in the shoulders and in the hips.
  Clean Shape
Conclusions
What really surprised us is that fairytales and travel stories are almost completely absent. With a general trend that tends to prefer less personal or self-referential concepts, quoting fairytales is not a way to dive in the imaginary of certainty to create the basis for a model. It looks more like an unreal descriptive element to understand the mood of the project.

Looking at the young talents' favourite designers and favourite magazines, things have changed since 2009. Alexander McQueen is strongly on top of the list and there probably is no reason to explain why. Behind him are Hussein Chalayan, Maison Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons and Viktor and Rolf.
Regarding magazines there has been quite a revolution: Vogue (total of various editions) leads the pack, followed by Collezioni editions, Elle editions, Nylon editions and Dazed & Confused followed by i-D.

Needless to say, the emotion of walking with our fingertips on the threads of magnificent yet invisible mental webs connecting the most unthinkable points of the planet is always intense. They are fragile silk threads that vibrate from human feelings, along which run - sometimes crossing each other - the silent plots of stories we all hear. This is the marvel which repeats itself each year: you turn a page and hear your name being called.
   

The ITS#NINE Jury
Presenting the Members of this Year's Jury Panel!
ITS#NINE reveals the jurors who will decide the winners on 16 and 17 July! Following are the bios of each one of them, starting with a very, very interesting and renowned Dutch design duo....

 
VIKTOR&ROLF
Fashion designers
 
Viktor Horsting (b.1969) & Rolf Snoeren (b.1969) met while studying fashion at the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design in The Netherlands (1989-1992). Their first collection ‘Hyères’ (1993) based on distortion, reconstruction and layering won three prizes at the Salon Europeen des Jeunes Stylistes at the Festival International de Mode et de Photographie.
The subsequent presentation of four critically acclaimed collections in experimental art spaces affirmed their reputation as fashion artisans. Focusing purely on couture, they stunned ever growing audiences with the extravagant and unorthodox nature of their designs, marking their ascent into the realm of high fashion.
With the launch of the iconic wax seal in the same year, Viktor & Rolf had established themselves as a true brand. With the desire to expand, Viktor & Rolf entered into a partnership with Only the Brave in 2008, allowing the company to develop new product ranges, extend distribution and open further boutiques.
Though commercially ambitious, Viktor & Rolf retain their penchant for speculation, retaining a strong presence in the art world. The work of Viktor & Rolf is represented in the collections of the most important fashion museums in the world, as well as in numerous private collections.
Along with their involvement in the visual arts, Viktor & Rolf have collaborated on a number of projects within the performing arts. The most recent, with acclaimed director Robert Wilson, saw the production of costumes for his stage production of the Weber opera ‘Der Freischütz’ that was performed at the Festspielhaus in Baden-Baden, Germany (2009).
Viktor & Rolf continue to deliver their characteristic form of extraordinary glamour, proving them worthy recipients of Dutch fashion’s highest distinction the MODINT ‘Grand Seigneur’ (2009).
VALENTINA MAGGI
Director of the Design Practice at Floriane de St. Pierre
 
Graduated in Architecture from the Politecnico di Milano, Valentina Maggi began her professional career in the Conservation and History of Architecture Department of the Politecnico di Milano. With her passion for Design in the wider sense, Valentina Maggi joined FLORIANE DE SAINT PIERRE & ASSOCIÉS in 1999 and has headed up the Design Practice since 2000.
   
SARA MAINO
Fashion Editor Vogue Italia/Vogue,it
 
Sara Maino was born and raised in Milan. She studied at an English school from nursery to high school and started to work at 10 Corso Como boutique immediately after. She then entered in Vogue Italia as a stageur in 1994. She loves photography and doing research, which she considers as the only way to stimulate the mind. Sara spends most of her time hunting for new talents, as the Head of the talents area of Vogue.it website and of the “Vogue Talents” guide published once a year.
   
NINA MARIA NITSCHE
Maison Martin Margiela
 
  Nina-Maria Nitsche born in Lüneburg, Germany, in 1965.
After, she studied at Studio Berçot Paris, first training course at Maison Martin Margiela, for the 90/91 spring/summer and autumn/winter collection.
From 1991 to 1993, follow up of the realization of the collection of Maison Martin Margiela woven part in the factory Demi Cler in Italy. From 1993 to 1996, as product manager  for MMM at Staff International.
From 1997 to 2005, designer in charge of the MMM women’s line in Paris. From 2006 to today, she is the collection manager for men and women lines in Paris.
   
MASON JUNG
Winner of “Fashion Collection of the Year “ at ITS#EIGHT
 
Mason Jung was born in Seoul, Korea. He completed a BA in Clothing and Textiles at Kyung Hee University. During that time, he served 26 months in the Korean military as national duty, where he faced regulated life. The experience made him have deep thoughts about formality which is reflected in his work. After BA, Jung went on to work for commercial fashion labels in Seoul. In 2007, he moved to London to present his work to a broader audience. Jung attained a Master's Degree at Royal College of Art where he spent two years.
   
MARIA LUISA POUMAILLOU
Founder and buyer Maria Luisa Boutique
 
Cosmopolitanism, a rejection of the ordinary and a taste for difference are the cherished values to Maria Luisa’s heart. The daughter of Venezuelan political refugees, who settled in Paris when she was 7 years old, she entered Science Po in Paris, achieved a literature degree in Madrid and traveled all over the world.
In 1988, a shop project with a friend does not succeed. As she already had the space located rue Cambon, she aimed to find another function for it : with no previous experience in buying, but with a very strong intuition, she boldly places her first orders with some designers she picked up in fashion magazines. With a lot of conviction in her choices, an extreme passion to defend the work of a particular designer and a natural ability to help and advise customers, the store becomes quickly essential for Parisian, and international fashion lovers. Widely requested through the press, headhunters, various schools and international competitions, Maria Luisa has become a figurehead in the fashion scene with her analyses, her spontaneity and the sharpness of her taste.
   
MANDI LENNARD
Mandi Lennard, Director, Mandi's Basement
 
Mandi Lennard heads Mandi's Basement a recently launched brand consultancy, whose clients include: Barbie (Mattel), Bistrotheque, LOVE Magazine, M·A·C Cosmetics, Oasis, and Peanuts (comic strip).  She set up Mandi Lennard Publicity in 1998, following a successful retail career that includes 6 years as a Buyer and Merchandiser for London store Browns.  Her agency became reputed for launching the newest creative talent into the international style marketplace, and recognised for promoting the creative hotbed of London's East End.
In December 2009, Mandi Lennard was listed within 'The Power 25', a list of the 25 most powerful fashion players in British fashion today — released by the British Fashion Council to coincide with their 25th anniversary — alongside such industry figures as Sir Paul Smith and Dame Vivienne Westwood. Mandi's Basement is also the name of her blog on Colette's website.
   
KEI KAGAMI
Fashion Designer
 
Kei Kagami initially studied architecture and worked as studio assistant to the pre-eminent figurehead of Twentieth Century Japanese building design, Kenzo Tange. During this period Kagami realised his true vocation and promptly enrolled at Tokyo's Bunka College to study tailoring. Building a bridge between the two disciplines, the move into fashion was a sort of logical progression. In 1989 Arriving on the doorstep of John Galliano's studio in London his talent and determination were instantly recognised and Galliano put him to work without hesitation, and he remained there as Galliano's studio assistant for three seasons working very closely with his mentor. In 1990 with the help of Shiseido, Kagami enrolled at the prestigious Central Saint Martins. In 2001, his first catwalk show was held off-schedule at The Bulgarian Embassy in London. He has shown in London for several seasons and presented his catwalk show in Milan till 2007. Kagami's first shoe-exhibition was held at a gallery in Milan in 2003.
Transcending fashion, Kagami's intricate, structural designs have been displayed in museums and galleries across the world including the Museum of Modern Art (Belgrade), Au Musée du Textile et des Costumes de Wesserling (France), Design 21 exhibition ( New York), triennale (Milano ), Rooms (Tokyo) 'The Fashion of Architecture ' (London and New York), 'Body Extensions' (Switzerland). Gothic dark glamour (New York) ,
Arnhem Mode Biennale (Holland).
   
GIAMPIETRO BAUDO
Editor in Chief Milano Finanza Fashion
 
Giampietro Baudo, born in 1976, is the director of the only Italian newspaper entirely dedicated to fashion, Milano Finanza Fashion. He became director of the newspaper in the beginning of 2007, after being chief editor for L'Uomo Vogue.
   
ELISA PALOMINO
Fashion Designer
 
Elisa Palomino was born in the late sixties in Valencia, Spain. She discovered fashion in her eccentric grandmother's attic. Elisa attended St.Martins College of Art, where she completed a Masters degree in Fashion Design. After several years at Moschino, developing their whimsical style, she moved to Paris. During eight years she she was Head of Studio at John Galliano, collaborating at the Haute Couture at Christian Dior. In 2008 Elisa moves to New York to become VP of Design for Diane Von Furstenberg. In February 2010 she launched her own line with a first catwalk-show at the NY Fashion Week.
   
DONALD POTARD
Founder & Owner "Agent de Luxe"
 
Donald Potard set up and now runs Agent de Luxe after working as CEO of the Maison Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, chairing the trade association for the ready-to-wear industry, couturiers and designers and, for more than 20 years, the group Jean-Paul Gaultier.
Agent de Luxe is the first artistic agency which supports fashion designers and Luxury brands to get the very most out of the company’s brand image and optimise their commercial success.
Agent de Luxe provide an access to the codes of the luxury goods industry and a fabulous source of creativity for business to draw upon.
   
DEANNA FERRETTI
Entrepreneur
 
Deanna Ferretti Veroni started her career in Reggio Emilia, Italy more than 30 years ago. She has since then successfully collaborated with some of the most important designers of this past century. She met Kenzo when she was barely 25 years old and with him she worked successfully for over 20 years. During the 70’s she collaborated with Yves Saint Laurent (Tricot e Variation), Rena Kraft, Chiwitt, Frapp, Luis London, Blaky Dress, Giorgio Correggiari, Popy Moreni and Michelle Bruyere.
In the 80’s she started to have her first licences with Adrienne Vittadini, Armani and Joseph. Their collections were drawn by John Galliano and John Richmond.
In the 90’s, she worked for Martin Margiela, Gai Mattiolo, Valentino, Neil Barret and for many others brands. She has a wide experience in textiles and knitwear but she cannot be called neither a fashion designer nor simply a business woman. Actually, she is an atypical figure born to realise almost every designer’s dream. Now, every three or four years her company supports a new young talent. Deanna also continues to collaborate with several schools and always loves to work with young people. Miss Deanna is a symbol of originality and quality.
   
CHAU HAR LEE
Winner of “Accessiores collection of the Year “ at ITS#EIGHT
 
London based footwear designer Chau Har Lee’s work spans conceptual footwear to more accessible pieces. Her work combines traditional methods of shoemaking with modern technologies creating a unique aesthetic in her designs. Having studied Footwear Design at Cordwainers College in 2002, Chau went on to complete a Masters degree in at the prestigious Royal College of Art in 2009. Highlights included winning a Manolo Blahnik RCA prize 2009, being part of Umbro’s Global Stadium Winning team 2008, Oasis competition finalist and nominee for the Todd and Duncan award of excellence 2009.
Currently working on her own label, Chau also designs for Camper and teaches at London College of Fashion and Prescott and Mackay. Recent achievements include being awarded NEWGEN sponsorship for September London Fashion Week, presenting with Fashion East at Somerset House and London Showrooms in Paris during February/March 2010, and winning the ITS#EIGHT Accessories Collection of the Year Award 2009.
   
BRUNO COLLIN
Artistic Director DIESEL
 
Bruno Collin started his career as journalist at MEDIAS, advertising publication where he worked for 7 years specializing in fashion, luxury and beauty business. He wrote important features on Karl Lagerfeld, Philippe Starck and Jean Paul Goude among others.
At the same time he collaborated with female fashion titles like Elle and Dépêche Mode as well as with fashion trades like “Sportswear International“ – where he was Editor in Chief from 1994 to 1998.
Journalist during the day, Bruno played an active role also into the ‘nuit parisienne’ at night organizing some of the best evening events at clubs such as Folies, Queen, Les Bains. During those years he also took part in writing important trend books such as: "1000 extra-ordinary objects" for Colors, edited by TASCHEN.
In 1998, Bruno Collin, together with a team of creatives, started working on a new project of a fashion publication dedicated to different niche new cultures; a fashion magazine able to be a real interpreter of urban trends and this is how he created the WAD, which celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2009.
   
BERNADETTE WITTMANN GLITTENBERG
Founder and Head of BWG S.L.
 
Bernadette Wittmann Glittenberg can look back on over 20 years of experience in the fashion industry.
With her company BWG S.L. Bernadette is mainly working in creative consulting, commercial guidance, marketing and sales strategy, as well as concept and production of fashion events. During her international career she worked with renowned fashion designers and houses such as Dries Van Noten, Rochas by Olivier Theyskens, Bread&Butter Design and guided emerging talents to develop their businesses in a creative and commercial wayBWG S.L. works together with international fashion schools as well as organising exhibition projects and has expanded its network to the visual and performing arts.
BWG S.L. also collaborates in one-off projects, including performances, installations and exclusive events having a link to fashion and fashion design. BWG S.L. acts as a bridge between fashion designers and the industry, drawing upon a well-established database.
   
BARBARA FRANCHIN
Talent Scout and Director of EVE/ITS
 
She was born in Trieste, Italy, and living in a border zone has led to her openness and curiosity in terms of interfusion in all its forms. She took her first steps in the fashion world establishing an atelier with a friend aimed to the creation of extravagant womenswear clothing. Her propensity for exchange, comparison, curiosity and the search for the creative spark lead her to create and organise in 1993 Mittelmoda, a projects created to provide space for the elaboration and search for talent within the fashion world.
Barbara left it after the 2000 edition to launch a new and autonomous entrepreneurial project in Trieste; an agency, EVE, of which she is Director & Project Supervisor. As director of EVE she has been organising ITS - International Talent Support since the very beginning.

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