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Noovo Editions

Noovo Editions is an independent editorial project with online and paper editions. First of its kind in Spain from an unique and contemporary perspective on the international panorama,
Noovo seeks not only to be an aesthetic arbiter but also a cultural mediator at the juncture between Fashion, Photography & Jewellery.
A platform to show the highest level of creativity from around the world

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Interviews -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

 
-----.INTERVIEW WITH TRIPPEN








Please introduce yourself?
Angela Spieth: I moved to West Berlin in the mid 80s and studied Fashion Design at the University of the Arts. After leaving university in 1987, I joined a German shoe manufacturer for an internship – and stayed on for three years. In the subsequent years I worked as a freelance footwear designer in many countries around the world – first in Europe and the US, later in Asia. In all these years I gained deep insights into the industry and it became clear to me that I had to escape the logic of the mass market: innovation, imitation, mass production, trash – this senseless destruction of resources.

Michael Oehler: I grew up in Lindau, at Lake Constance and moved to West Berlin in the early 80s, where I signed up with a shoemaker to learn the trade from start to finish. Later I set up my own workshop in Kreuzberg. There I built custom-made shoes for theatre and film as well as individual clients following the concept to provide a high quality, sparing in material and ecologically sensible product.


How did you get started?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: We first met in the “designtransfer” gallery in Berlin, during an exhibition of Angela’s then employer. In the early 90s we visited together an old shoe last factory in the Harz mountains where we found unused wooden soles from the seventies. In four intensive weeks experimenting in Michael’s Kreuzberg workshop, we developed a first series of shoes, which we exhibited at the “Galerie für Kunsthandwerk” in Berlin. The exhibition was a tremendous success and became the staring point of our label “Trippen”.


What is your work about?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: Our work is about designing intelligent footwear that balances practical and ecological aspects and fashion appeal. Our designs take fashion trends o board, but not their throwaway nature. Environmental aspects and ecological production methods are not only taken into consideration, but have direct influence on our designs. At the same time our approach to pattern technique is often experimental and rather similar to couture.


Is there any specific reason why you chose shoes design?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: We felt that in the late 80s there was a lack of interesting and intelligent footwear.


Is there anything specific that you feel makes you different from others in your work?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: Mostly it is fashion OR ecology, factory OR hand-made... Also, we made the conscious decision not to duck out of the responsibility for production, but instead set up our own factory just outside Berlin. This means close involvement and higher wage costs, but also a flexibility that allows attention to be paid to customer requests with the facility to produce even small quantities or single pairs.


What do you consider the most innovative piece of your designs so far?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: The “Closed” collection with its recessed, mechanically attached and easily replaceable sole.


Can you tell us something about the design process?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: First it is an abstract idea that then materialises itself in individual designs.


Can you identify a stage (or stages) during the creative process you find the most gratifying? And the least gratifying?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: The most exciting point is, where we not yet know, whether a new idea works or not.


Could you name people you admire and/or played a part in your development as an artist? Are there any movements that influenced you?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: The Bauhaus with its holistic approach to design, Louis Sullivan and his principle of „form follows function“, the concept of “sustainability”.


If you had to choose just one color and one type of material to make an important piece, what would they be?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: The material of our choice would be “pub” – a vegetable-tanned buffalo leather treated with oil and wax. Scratches and irregularities are characteristic of this truly natural material.


What role does you work play in your life?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: Work is the easiest way to express ourselves.


Can you tell us something about how you see the current state of your profession in general?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: We are quite successful in China at the moment – now the question is, how to convince our partners of a sustainable growth.


What is vulgar to you? And what´s elegant?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: It is like the half glass – showing too much is vulgar, less is elegant.


What does beauty means for you?
Angela Spieth/ Michael Oehler: Life.











------------ More info: http://de.trippen.com


all images © Juergen Holzenleuchter, Ottensoos
 
 

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