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Noovo Editions

Noovo Editions is an independent editorial project with online and paper editions. First of its kind in Spain from an unique and contemporary perspective on the international panorama,
Noovo seeks not only to be an aesthetic arbiter but also a cultural mediator at the juncture between Fashion, Photography & Jewellery.
A platform to show the highest level of creativity from around the world

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Interviews -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

 
-----.INTERVIEW WITH ERÏK BJERKESJÖ
 




















Erïk Bjerkesjö’s subversive style has been a long time in the making, he completed masters in advanced fashion footwear design at polimoda under the guidance of patrick de muynck and linda loppa. Erïk’s vision is to make a thoughtful, elegant design that is innovative and a post-modern synthesis. The inaugural collection is being entirely manually produced by the designer himself as well as seasoned craftsmen in the rich, fecund, rolling green hills of tuscany. And the shoemaker’s brand, etched on the upper element of the sole, is the logotype of the tuscany region, which has come to symbolise its superlative craftsmanship over many decades.


From the sedulous leather selection down to the hand placement of the completed work in its black box, the genesis of each and every pair of shoes is a singular and meticulous labor of passion for well made shoes.
The progressive fabrication process takes place within the confines of an atelier, where whiffs of fine leather scent the air and are punctuated by the rhythmic knocks of delicate hammers.


Environment is of the essence, and ensures that a pair of shoes are enduring models of genuinely traditional craftsmanship and artisanal skill.
The construction process begins in the clicking room, in which the elements are cut out, one at a time. Onwards, the individual pieces then pass through the prep room, where thread making takes place and the pieces and are hand-sewn. From there, they head finally into the closing room, where the completed segments of the upper are united.


Once the upper has been completed, it is whisked then to the lasting room, where the shoe at last begins to take on its formal shape. From there it’s a stay in the making room, where the signature goodyear stitching process suffuses the shoe with a great deal of its character. Nearly complete, the shoe’s next stop is the finishing room, where the artisanal detail work is done before the finishing touches are applied in the shoe room.


With its hand-beveled waist, fine punching on its toe cap and rounded soles, this collection of low and high ankle derby models positively reek of the bespoke, characteristic of the collection.


Buried inside the handmade heel is a veritable treasure: six times three eighteen-carat gold pins, an homage to the most dignified among classics, the vienna heel. And at the end of their formidable journey, after laborious weeks and many, many hours of care by craftsmen who have pored over each detail, the shoe is born: an exquisite, wholly one-hundred-and-ten per cent one-of-a-kind handmade treasure, quintessentially beautiful and unmistakable in its artisan craftsmanship.

















- Exhibition at Luisa Via Roma,Together with Ann Demeulemeester,
  Haider Ackermann, Florence July 2009.
- Showcase Copenhagen Fashion Week, Copenhagen Aug 2009 & Aug 2010.
- Exhibition at WeAreGroup, Royal Palace Stockholm Jan, 2010.
- Showcase,Mobile, Milano June 2010
- Showcase together with Svenskt Tenn, Stockholm June 2011
- At Nordiska Kompaniet, New NK Future Classics brand, Stockholm, March 2011
- Showcase at TRANOÏ, Paris, Jan 2011
- Show at Royal Opera, Stockholm Fashion Week, Stockholm, Feb 2011
- New Talent of 2011 by The Fashion Council of Sweden, Aug 2011
- NFA, Nordic Fashion Association, Finalist Design Challenge, may 2012
- Show at Royal Opera, Stockholm Fashion Week, Aug 2011
- At Ole Yde in Copenhagen, Sep 2011
- Exhibition at Nordiska Kompaniet together with YSL, Sep 2011

















  Please, Could you introduce yourself?
I am a designer with direction craftmanship footwear, master in advanced fashion footwear design at polimoda instituto, under the guidance of patrick de muynck and linda loppa.
Born in sweden, gotland and stockholm. Working with my collections with craftsmen in toscany, italy.
I am eager to make a well made product with no season, and to work with a older generation craftsmen.



How did you get started?
I started fashion design with a tailoring orientation but changed into footwear, and immediately felt that i was in the right track, I felt it was my destiny to make shoes.



What is your work about?
I am constant making new things and i feel very happy to see and learn new techniques.
My vision is to make a thoughtful, elegant design that is innovative and a post-modern synthesis.



Is there a specific reason why you chose shoes design?
(Is it a means to express yourself as an artist or do you simply see it as an interesting profession?)

I see it as an interesting profession, but i am using different angels with an artistic incursion.
I think it is very interesting to become very good in you profession, whatever it is, for me to practise. An old tradition into a new segment is something i feel very conected to make.



Is there anything specific that you feel makes you different from others in your work?
I dont know what other people do in my kind of work, but i feel that i am making something unique and with an old tradition in the making and a strong conceptual thinking that makes my work different compare to others.
I am doing handmade shoes and tailored costumes and i only have myself
As a refrence, i dont look that much of what others do.
I am friend with obscur and i respect what he does, but we are different designers. I just have my vision when i am working so i have no idea what others do.



What do you consider the most innovative piece of your designs so far?
I like my shoe transmission, with a strong embossed organic calf leather.
The name is from a song by joy division that i have listen to during my teen age period til today.
I made the shoe by my interpretation of the feeling i got from the song and the lyrics, childhood memories of my grandfather always dressed in a black suit with perfect pollished black shoes, the feeling of a late winter night in sweden, and to make a classic handmade shoe with so many days of work, with holes thru the shoe, just like the saying "you can't shoot a hole thru a broken heart".



Can you tell us something about the design process?
The process takes place in my atelier, and in the workshop with the craftsmen i work with in toscany. Where fine leather are punctuated by delicate hammers.
Environment is of the essence, the construction process begins in the clicking room, in which the elements are cut out after my design sketches, one at a time.
The individual pieces are starting to take shape and then pass through the prep room, where thread making takes place and the pieces are hand-sewn.
From there, they head into the closing room, where the completed segments of the upper are united.
Fine punching on its toe cap and rounded soles, the shoe is born.
I always have alot of ideas when i work but i choose not to make my label to wide and to much, i want to make something that sticks for many seasons.



Can you identify a stage (or stages) during the creative process you find the most gratifying? and the least gratifying?
To make and to see an idea become something that you could wear, and to learn by the craftsmen the tradition.
The least gratifying i feel its the days im not working..actually.



Could you name people you admire and/or played a part in your development as an artist? Are there any movements that influenced you?
I was a little bit political active when i grew up and was often part of demonstations, i was listening to the swedish band refused among few,
And i beelived that the expectation the society had of teen ages was hopeless, and that we lived in a mass production, fast forward atmosphere.
When i started my journey as a designer i felt that i could at least make some different in the making proccess, materials and always keep in mind that I dont want to go mass production to make something fast for a fast society, as a designer you have responsibilitys.
I have got great help on my way by talented designers, artists, teachers and friends.
Linda loppa, diane becker and patrick de muynck during my education  but also right at this moment, we stil have great contact and i am happy that they like what i do.
I also admire the photographer Magnus klackenstam, art direction Magnus liljebergh that i recently work together with and the craftsmen of course.



If you had to choose just one color and one type of material to make an important piece, what would they be?
Black (calf) leather.



Our aim is to show only truly interesting and original work that is created with artistic integrity. We want to show alternatives to the quick-consumption culture and over-commercialization.
Do you have any thoughts about this? Does it affect you? Or is it just a fact of life?

When i started my label, that was the main reason to make what i do, i am very against quick-consumtion and i feel sich just passing big multi nationel fashion stores, its such a waist, and they just keep pushing the prices with more lies. Its sad that so many people have that attitude towards consumtion and products, over-commercialization just makes more people blind.



What role does you work play in your life?
A very big deal in my life, a everyday romance.


Can you tell us something about how you see the current state of your profession in general? (Is it a good time or not? Are there things happening you find interesting or that you fear? Is there interesting work coming from other parts of the world? etc.)
I can't realy say too much of the current state of my profession looks like in general, but i know that true talent and well made design shows stronger then a big multi brand tries to look like they are doing something handcrafted, its almost like the "handmade" stamp has turned into a comercial branding strategi.
For me i feel it is a good time for making what i do, with positive feedback from customers and buyers/boutiques, but i don't think it has to do with something else then that they like my dsign and construction.



What is vulgar to you? And what elegant?
I don't know, i think there is room for all types of people, nothing is to vulgar. I think elegant is in every person that feel proud of who it is.



What does beauty means for you?
Something you cant resist.













More Info: http://www.erikbjerkesjo.com


Erïk Bjerkesjö

Photo Philip Karlberg

Photo Philip Karlberg

Photo Philip Karlberg

Photo Philip Karlberg

Photo Philip Karlberg

Photo Magnus Klackenstam

Photo Magnus Klackenstam

Photo Magnus Klackenstam

Photo Magnus Klackenstam
Photo Magnus Klackenstam

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