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Noovo Editions

Noovo Editions is an independent editorial project with online and paper editions. First of its kind in Spain from an unique and contemporary perspective on the international panorama,
Noovo seeks not only to be an aesthetic arbiter but also a cultural mediator at the juncture between Fashion, Photography & Jewellery.
A platform to show the highest level of creativity from around the world

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Interviews ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 
----------------------------------------------------....................---.CAMPBELL: DARKSLAND 2.0 INTERVIEW

DARKSLAND 2.0

Darklands is a nomadic, multi-brand, cutting edge men’s fashion shop. Featuring the most coveted avant garde designers of the moment, the shop relocates to a new space within Berlin, every couple of seasons or so. We can find one of the best selections of cult designers like Carol Christian Poell, Julius, Damir Doma, MA+, The Viridi-Anne, Boris Bidjan Saberi, Undercover, Lumen et Umbra, Augusta, Obscur, Reinhard Plank, Yohan Serfaty.

The shop is affiliated with the long running and now legendary Komakino (www.komakino.ca).

Ann Demeulemeester, Augusta, Boris Bidjan Saberi ,Carol Christian Poell, Damir Doma, Forme d´Expression, Guidi, Julius, MA+, Obscur, Reinhard Plank, Rick Owens, Sak, The Viridi-Anne, Undercover, Yohan Serfaty.

How Darklands and Komakino come to exist?

I have done other shops before, but was left unsatisfied and often poor! I was looking for new solutions to allow me to do what I really love. After trying out the concept, I opened Darklands in Berlin, simply because that is where I wanted to live.  

When and why did you start with this double project?

komakino started in 2005, firstly as a brick an mortar shop then gradually developing an online sales presence. Darklands opened in berlin in 2008. Then in the spring of 2009 I closed the brick and mortar version of komakino to go online only.

What difference exists between Darksland and Komakino? What kind of relationship have between both?

Aside from one being a brick and mortar shop and one an online shop, there are some slight differences in the brands. in addition to the many brands carried at both, komakino also has Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester and Guidi. But there may come a time soon, when these are available in store at Darklands too.

Darksland is a guerrilla store concept located in Berlin, could you explain it ? Had you think other locations in another countries?

Darklands is a 'nomadic' shop, or in other words, its mandate is to move to a new location every 12 months or so. It strives to always show a stark contrast to the previous location. I have been approached frequently about doing one in another country but, I am not interested at this time in working more than i already do.One day I may bring Komakino as a physical shop, but there is no plan now to do so.

Darklands is more than just a place to buy special pieces of clothes, shoes or complements, could you tell us a bit more about its spirit?

There is a complete culture around the shop that extends far beyond the aesthetic of the clothing. Most of the customers share a similar taste to mine, in film, music or art.

Why are you dedicated just to men?

We are not - we have many good female clients. But our mandate is to carry only mens collections. I was a womens's wear buyer for 10 years as well but the goal with this concept was always to be be very specific to avant garde men's items and i have no interest in changing that, despite all the questions we get about doing a women's section or a women's shop. Darklands bases it's origins on an old world men's shop. But naturally, it has taken that inspiration and given it a bit of an odd twist.

Why are you interested in a project related to fashion?

it was always an interest for me, but it just happened that is how I decided to make a living. I could of been just as likely to have gone into the art or music worlds.

What are the most difficult aspects of development in your work?, and the aspects do you like most?

1 - Getting clients to break out of their patterns to come to a new location.

2 - The travel, the people and the product.

Which would be the outstanding aspects of your designers and labels choice?

I feel they are all outstanding. Unlike most shopsI do not select designers for what I feel will be an easy sell. I go on intuition and merely select designers that I am passionate about their work. 

In your opinion, what is the contribution of "your" designers to the fashion world?

Our designers form the core of an aesthetic that did not even really exist as a movement, a decade ago. call it what you will, but even though it is small, it has quickly become a force to be reckoned with.

What are you looking for in a designers proposal to have them in your spaces?

To have something about what they do, make a very strong connection with me personally. 


Have you had any influences or inspirations on your sense of style over the years?

Yes of course. music, art, film, architecture and the inspiration of both people around me and people on the street.

In a near future, what creators are you interested to work with? 

We work with everyone that interests me already. But I will leave in days for Paris Fashion Week and it is likely that I will find something new. Although we carry some of the biggest names in the design world (Carol Christian Poell, Rick Owens, Ma+) we are very proud too, of our commitment to strong up and coming talents. We carried the the very first collection from people like Boris Bidjan Saberi and Damir Doma.

A little thought for this new year...

I am very excited about the opportunities and challenges of 2010. I´m presently looking for the new (version 3.0) Darklands space and it looks like the next space will be the most interesting yet.

More Info: http://darklandsberlin.com






 

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