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Noovo Editions

Noovo Editions is an independent editorial project with online and paper editions. First of its kind in Spain from an unique and contemporary perspective on the international panorama,
Noovo seeks not only to be an aesthetic arbiter but also a cultural mediator at the juncture between Fashion, Photography & Jewellery.
A platform to show the highest level of creativity from around the world

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Interviews -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

 
-----.INTERVIEW WITH ASGER JUEL LARSEN

Asger Juel Larsen lives in a state of romance, warfare and gothic utopia. This is a designer who's strength lies in a story. From an underground military rave, to a well tailored and rebellious roadtrip, or even a residency in the madhouse, Asger has a dark jungle of ideas that pushes menswear into psychotic sophistication. Call it personal experiences or messed up dreams; either way the concoction is truly addictive in the aesthetic. Always expect a mixture of sportswear and tailoring, an ongoing search for new materials and textures as well as digital print from Asger that has an intimidating brilliance about it. This is menswear that tests you and society, encourages confidence and conspiracy, and questions the difference between strength and vulnerability.

Who is Asger Juel Larsen?
He is a guy with a broad sense of humour.

What was the motivation for you to become a fashion designer?
Well, I don’t remember the exact time, but the idea of creating an imaginative world within a world has always had an impact on my way of living.

Graduated with a BA & MA in 2011 from London College of Fashion, also with placements at John Richmond and Burberry Prorsum. At what point do you think London has influenced in your vision of fashion and developing of it, not just in a creative level but also commercial organization too?
London has given me many things. - Essential both the irrational as well as the craft of being a menswear designer. The business side of things, I didn’t learn while being in London, quite the opposite actually. For me, that came later and I’m still lacking at times, that’s why I have a business partner and a healthy team surrounding me who are maintaining that part.

At the beginning you were introduced as "a designer which marks and merits the adventurous and rule breaking reinvention of contemporary menswear, taking the androgynous to new levels of sophistication and depth", what are the most notable changes in your label since the beginning until today? And how does Asger Juel Larsen find himself at this point of his career?.
I guess I never really thought of it like that, it was something that came along whilst doing it. I always use very masculine characters in my design universe, somehow when things become extremely masculine; it becomes sexual and feminine and irreversibly androgynous. Nevertheless, I a, enjoying life atm., things are moving forward, and subsequently it’s easier to focus on the creative parts.

Your universe like a brand is represented by two lines: ASGER JUEL LARSEN and A.J.L MADHOUSE, a diffusion line which is non-season based and uni-sex, "putting two fingers up to the seasons and style conventions". Why did you decide to launch the second collection?
A.J.L Madhouse is a natural extension of the main line. I’ve been wanting to do some form of ‘loud’ print design for some time now, but it didn’t seem right to adapt it into the mainline. I grew up reading Thrasher Magazine in the 90’s and the rebellious and straightforward way of thinking is a clear reflection in the A.J.L Madhouse line. Also the idea of coming out to a broader audience was fundamental in its conception.

Today seems that progress is synonymous of innovation. Your work reveals, indeed, an on-going search for new materials and textures…but, which are your favourite fabrics to work with? Do you believe that materials are the beginning of fashion?
Not one in specific. For the collections, fabrics / materials are often taken out of their comfort zone and enhanced into a completely different context, where they becomes fun. Design and fabric hunting happen simultaneously for me. They both create new ideas.

Digital print is a narrative/ literary element that plays an important issue in your work, Could you explain a bit more how important is to develop your creations?
Digital print is not more important than the design itself. Digital print is interesting because it can call out a vital idea of the collection story easy.

Do you think that fashion is being standardized?, How do you achieve preserve your identity as a fashion brand?
Being consistent and believing in yourself are possibly the most important factors here.

Asger Juel Larsen: a mixture of sportswear and tailoring, gothic and sport infusion, apocalyptic and psychotic society, futuristic sci-fi sphere and social rebellions. Totally intoxicating. Surviving… like our daily life, more or less; have you ever really found the potion to express yourself?
It is the mixture of things that inspires me. - Playing on more than one conceptual ‘Dogma’ rule has never been my thing.

Regarding about one of your most recent collections "A TRIPLE DISTILLED DREAM" SS14, you made a few friends in the madhouse, adding two collaborations: Danish outerwear label 'Rains' and Shoemakers Last Conspiracy, How does these collaborations appears and what is the valuation of the experience?
Collaborations are good, especially when you collaborate with someone who expertise is diverse from your own. This is the case with Rains and The Last Conspiracy and both collaborations succeeded greatly.

As a professional, what is your main obsession?
Trying to fit in more hours during a day.

What are the main three basic principles that your profession should keep?
A clear vision
Retain a life outside fashion
Say no

Success is…….
…. Doing exactly what you’re supposed to do.

This is a recurrent but always hazy question for the public; in your opinion, how a young fashion designer can survive outside this hyper industrialization and the obsessive desire for constant change without a deeper criteria?
This is what fashion is about! Constant change and not much depth, there’s not time for it. You would have to love creating new things continuously to pursue a career in it.

Any chance we can get an advance of what surprises are hidden behind ASGER JUEL LARSEN?
Spring / Summer 2015 is almost done and it will be about finding the AJL origins. More interesting collaborations are on the way and the new Madhouse collection is furious as always.



© credits:
Portrait: Louise Damgaard

Campaign images: Jens Stoltze, courtesy Marlo Saalmink
Runway Images: Sacha Maric at Copenhagen Fashion Week
images Jens Stoltze, courtesy Marlo Saalmink



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------------ More info: http://www.asgerjuellarsen.com
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