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Noovo Editions


Noovo Editions is an independent editorial project with online and paper editions. First of its kind in Spain from an unique and contemporary perspective on the international panorama,
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"A QUEEN WITHIN- Adorned Archetypes, Fashion and Chess"



In the game of chess, the queen is considered the most powerful and often the most unpredictable piece. She embodies tradition whilst simultaneously redefining rules established by a patriarchal system. This intriguing dichotomy is the inspiration behind "A Queen Within: Adorned Archetypes, Fashion and Chess" at the World Chess Hall of Fame in Saint Louis.

Viktor and Rolf, Courtesy Museum Boijman van Beuningen, Thespian Queen, Photo Sarah Carmody

Produced by an international team of thought-lead- ers, curators, artists, fashion insiders, and chess players, the exhibition explores the various archetypes of the queen, as well as how storytelling and symbols capture the imagination of innovative fashion designers.

TABITHA OSTLER, Mother Earth Queen, Photo Sarah Carmody

Extremely rare pieces from one of the world’s larg- est private collections of Alexander McQueen’s work join garments by Gianfranco Ferré, Gucci, Hussein Chalayan, Iris van Herpen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Martin Margiela, Viktor & Rolf and approximately 25 other European and Asian designers known for their daring, remarkable work. They range from estab- lished names to students still working in some of the most prestigious design schools in the world such as Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Central Saint Martins and Royal College of Arts in London.

WRITTENAFTERWARDS, JOSEFIN ARNELL, Magician Queen, Photo Sarah Carmody

Highlights of the exhibition include an Alexander McQueen cocktail dress emblazoned with an im- age of muse and provocateur Isabella Blow, Maison Martin Margiela’s unforgettable Glove vest from the SS2001 Artisanal collection, Shaun Leane and Daphne Guinness’ bespoke diamond glove Contra Mundum from 2011, Iris van Herpen’s Snake dress from her Capriole Haute Couture collection, Hussein Chalayan’s iconic Bubble dress from SS2007 and Viktor & Rolf’s celebrated coral cut tulle ball gown from the Cutting Edge Couture Collection SS2010.

CHARLIE LE MINDU, MAIKO TAKEDA, SHAUN LEANE AND DAPHNE GUINNESS, MAIKO TAKEDA, IRIS SCHIEFERSTEIN AND ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Courtesy of RKL Mother Queen, Photo Sarah Carmody

Selected works from famed photographer Anne Deniau’s recent book," Love Looks Not With The Eyes", which contains over 400 never before seen photos of Lee Alexander McQueen shot behind the scenes are highlighted in the exhibition.
On the 4th of June 2013 a pre-view of the exhibition was held at Christie’s auction house at the Rockafeller Center in New York.

IRIS VAN HERPEN, SERENA GILI, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Courtesy of RKL Consulting, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, Mother Figure Queen, Photo Sarah Carmody

"A Queen Within" investigates which archetypes can be seen to form the idea of a queen, or metaphorically a woman. The exhibition explores nine sides of a queen: The Sage, Mother Figure, Magician, Enchantress, Ex- plorer, Ruler, Mother Earth, Heroine and Thespian. The themes are based upon interpretations of some of Carl Jung’s most familiar archetypes. The story of each persona – its powers, its weaknesses, its signifi- cance, its sacrifice – is told through symbols, examples of fashion, photography, film and artwork.
“We have designed the exhibition itself to be a 3,200 square foot piece of art that viewers can experience on many different levels. They’ll be able to look closely for hidden symbols, stand back to appreciate the overall effect of enveloping visuals and reflect on each theme,” said Sofia Hedman, curator.
To parallel the history of chess itself, symbols have been taken from royal representations existing in the fifteenth century onwards. In royal paintings, such as the Rainbow Portrait of Elizabeth I (c. 1600-1602), symbols including eyes, ears, serpents and wings were used to emphasise the queen’s presence. These same symbols, and many more, appear in the exhibition de- sign as specially made sculptures.
Designer Serge Martynov, artist/wood carver Orlando Campbell and artist Karolina Kling were commissioned to contribute with the artwork and sculptures. The master of coiffure Charlie Le Mindu created bespoke wigs for the show.
After discovering Hieronymus Bosch’s Haywain triptych panel painting (1480-1500) on one of the Alexander McQueen dresses from the private collec- tion, Flemish painters such as Bosch and Pieter Bruegel became the inspiration for the exhibition design and prosthetics.

BEA SZENFELD, HIDEKI SEO, HIDEKI SEO, Explorer queen

About the World Chess Halll of Fame
The World Chess Hall of Fame (wchof) is a non-profit organization committed to building aware- ness for the cultural and artistic significance of chess. It opened on September 9, 2011, in Saint Louis’s Central West End after moving from previous locations in New York and Miami.
The wchof is housed in a historic 15,900 square foot building that includes three floors of galleries, the U.S. and World Chess Halls of Fame and the stylish
Q Boutique. It provides visitors with a unique opportu- nity to use chess as a platform for learning, exploring, and seeing the world in entirely new ways.
It is the only cultural institution of its kind in the world and the only solely chess-focused collecting institution in the U.S.

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, REJINA PYO, KETA GUTMANE, COMMISSIONED HEAD DRESSES CHARLIE LE MINDU, Mother Earth Queen, Photo Sarah Carmody

The exhibition is curated and designed by Sofia Hedman, Serge Martynov, Orlando Campbell and Karolina Kling.

IRIS VAN HERPEN, CHARLIE LE MINDU, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, SANDRA BACKLUND, NORITAKA TATEHANA, SHAUN LEANE, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN COMMISSIONED WIGS CHARLIE LE MINDU

  More Info: http://www.worldchesshof.org/exhibitions/exhibit/a-queen-within
 

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